The Self-Help Shelf: A Link Roundup

Get it Done. An Incomplete Manifesto for Growth by Bruce Mau "John Cage tells us that not knowing where to begin is a common form of paralysis. His advice: begin anywhere."

Gaping Void: How to Be Creative

Caring for your Introvert "...introverts are people who find other people tiring."

The Happiness Project "What's fun for other people may not be fun for you -- and vice versa."

How to Do What You Love by Paul Graham

Putting In a Window by John Brantingham "It's best if you work without thought of the end. If hurried, you end up with crooked door joints and drafty rooms." (Scroll down to 15 November 2005)

Bruce Sterling on what to do with your life: "You can get a hell of a lot done in a popular medium just by knocking it off with the bullshit."

Alice May Brock: Make it up as you go along. "Garlic makes it good."

Give Thanks for Line

Embrace your gesture. The line you draw is uniquely yours. Don't erase; an unedited line is an honest line. No one else's drawing will ever look exactly like yours. Make your mark, keep it fresh.

Sketch for Normal, OK: Trent Mugshot

Sketch for Normal, OK: Trent's Mugshot Ink on paper

Paper and Plastic, Part Two: Acrylic Gel Transfers

There are lots of ways to transfer an image from one surface to another. I use the acrylic gel transfer process to take ballpoint pen drawings and turn them into images that are waterproof and lightfast. The process I've described below can be used with photocopies, laser prints, and magazine pictures. It doesn't work so well with inkjet prints, unless you count on the ink bleeding. I recommend Golden Extra Heavy Gel (I like matte finish). You can use any kind of acrylic medium you like, but the thicker the gel, the sturdier and more complete your transfer will be. (Using thinner gel, or less of it, may give you a weathered kind of patina, but you'll lose some of your image.)

1. Take your laser print, photocopy, or otherwise printed image. Apply a generous coat of acrylic gel to the image. It doesn't matter how much of the paper you cover, as long as you cover every part of the image you wish to transfer. You don't even need to thin the gel with water; in fact, water will hinder the process by diluting the gel and slowing your drying time.

Note: Your transfer will be a mirror image of your original. Plan for this by flipping the image in PhotoShop before you make a laser print. Also, most photocopy machines come with a mirror image feature built-in. Ask your friendly underpaid copy shop assistant for guidance.

Normal, OK: Tishomingo

Normal, OK: Tishomingo "Mingo" Yale This is my original drawing of Mingo Yale, ballpoint pen on paper.

2. Let it dry completely, then repeat. I usually apply three solid coats of gel. Again, experiment with this process to achieve your desired effects.

2a. After your coats of gel are dry, but before you make the transfer, you can cut away the unused paper, or even parts of your image. It may be helpful to leave extra paper to hold onto, especially if you're unused to this process. Keep in mind that the gel is bonding to the copier toner, so every little speck on your laser print or photocopy will transfer if it gets gel on it. This is your chance to control that.

2b. You can also apply acrylic paint during this process, for color. Your transferred image will be translucent, so color will show through. If you do this, remember to think like a glass painter or cel animator -- in backwards layers. The same effect applies to your choice of transfer material. If you transfer onto white paper, the white will show through (or emphasize your colored acrylic layers). If you transfer on to a colored or patterned surface, that will show through, and may add to or interfere with your transferred image.

3. When your third coat of gel is dry, have your panel ready to transfer onto. Apply one more coat of gel to the image. While the gel is still wet, place the image face down on your panel. (You may want to make tic marks ahead of time, to register your corners.)

4. Using your hand, or other burnishing tool, rub the back of your paper firmly to glue the layers together. The tighter the seal, the more complete the image transfer will be. This works best on a rigid surface, not so well on traditionally stretched canvas. It is VERY IMPORTANT not to get any acrylic gel on the BACK of the paper. The paper must remain porous so water will penetrate it.

5. Let this dry completely, at least a couple of hours. Overnight is best. Press the layers together with books or heavy objects if possible.

6. When the sandwich is completely-I-really-mean-it-dry, sprinkle or spray the back of the paper with water. You just need enough to get the paper good and wet. Too much water will make a mess and make it more difficult to remove the paper. Using your fingers, or a sponge, or damp paper towel, rub the paper until it comes loose. Continue until all the little white fibery bits have come away. This is when you'll find out if you applied enough gel, or too much or too little.

7. Voila! What you see now is, from top to bottom: Laser toner or copier toner, layers of acrylic gel and/or acrylic paint, then your panel. The top layer of toner is pretty solid, but you can always paint more on top of it or at least seal it with another layer of gel.

Normal, OK: Tishomingo

Normal, OK: Mingo Yale (in progress) This is the post-transfer version. I began with a panel, gessoed it and painted it yellow. Before transferring, I cut around the image to avoid extraneous material transferring. Since making this particular transfer, I've noticed that I can trim right up to the edges of the image, and therefore control the physicality of my edge, eliminating any "halo" created by the thick acrylic gel. In this piece, I've downplayed the halo by painting around the transferred image with pink.

This process has opened up so many possibilities. Here are some other ideas: Digitally altering scanned images, then printing and transferring Turning digitally-created images into physical pieces Making multiples, using different colors and materials Transferring onto nontraditional surfaces (anything that acrylic will stick to) Transferring different images onto a single surface, combining them

Of course there are unlimited directions in which this process could take you. Let me know how it works for you!

Paper and Plastic, Part One: Saving Pen Drawings

Oh no, I didn't make my requisite post on Friday. Well, this one is extra-contenty. Editor's Note: I resolved a text-wrap issue, so the images are now embedded in this post.

I am so excited about this process I want everyone to know about it. I love drawing with ballpoint pens, in particular the Bic Round Stic Medium. (That's the cheapest kind, as it happens.) No other pen gives me the sensitivity and tonal range that I can squeeze out of the Bic. It lets me go from the faintest gray to black without smearing, clumping, or draining my bank account.

So what's the problem? For one thing, this ink is water-soluble, so it's very difficult to employ in the mixed-media processes I use so much. The other, bigger, problem is that this ink is about as far from archival as it can get.

In the last year I made several portrait drawings using the following process:

1. Stretch a canvas in the usual manner. For me, this means a masonite or MDF panel covered with canvas or another heavy duty cloth. Sometimes, I sand a panel and apply several layers of gesso with acrylic mixed in for color.

2. Create a collage from print sources, including photos, magazine pictures, and found paper (text, patterns, etc).

Sketch for Normal, OK: Dallas Amarillo

Collage sketch for Normal, OK: Dallas Amarillo

3. Using heavy-duty paper such as Stonehenge, I cut out a rough shape approximating the shape of the collage character. I adhere this paper to the canvas with Golden Acrylic Extra Heavy Matte gel medium. Sometimes I apply some color to the paper shape. I enjoy starting with a rough shape so I can treat it as a set of parameters. Then I draw the character within those (somewhat arbitrary) borders, problem-solving along the way.

Normal, OK: Lawton Amarillo I began this piece with canvas stretched over masonite and primed with gesso and acrylic. The figure is one piece of paper, glued to the canvas, then drawn with Bic ballpoint pen.

So far so good. At this point I could continue with an archival pen such as the Pigma Micron, but I don't like the high-contrast appearance of that ink, especially on smooth surfaces. (I like those pens for drawing directly on unprimed canvas or Stonehenge paper with no gesso or acrylic.)

Normal, OK: Taylor Hutto Taylor is canvas stretched on masonite, lightly primed with tinted gesso. The figure is drawn directly on the canvas with the Pigma Micron 005 pen.

But this is what I did instead:

4. Draw the character (based on the collage-sketch) on the collaged paper using the tasty tasty Bic ballpoint.

Normal, OK: Hinton Geary Upholstery fabric stretched on particle board, collaged paper, figures drawn with Bic ballpoint pen.

5. Hang on a wall for a month, watch as the ink oxidizes and fades.

6. Panic.

Recently I figured a way around this. I can still draw the pen portraits using my trusty Bic. I take the finished drawing and photocopy it or scan it and make a laser print. Then I make an acrylic gel transfer.

Tomorrow I'll describe the transfer process.